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The history of shampoo’s origin and evolution is a fascinating narrative that intertwines ancient traditions, advancements in scientific knowledge, and modern innovations. Shampoo has deep roots in India, tracing back thousands of years and reflecting the country’s strong connection to natural remedies and hygiene practices.
In the Indian subcontinent, various herbs and their extracts have long served as hair cleansers. The earliest forms of shampoo can be traced back to the Indus Valley Civilisation. An effective ancient shampoo was created by boiling soapberries (Sapindus) with dried Indian gooseberry (Amla) and other herbs, then straining the mixture. Soapberries, known as ksuna in ancient texts, are tropical trees found throughout India. The fruit pulp contains saponins, which act as natural surfactants, producing a lather referred to as phenaka in Indian literature.


This extract not only cleanses but also leaves hair soft, shiny, and manageable. Other traditional cleansing agents included shikakai (Acacia concinna), hibiscus flowers, ritha (Sapindus mukorossi), and arappu (Albizzia amara). A general principle from Ayurveda relevant to hair care states:.
“केशा न सुतरां स्निग्धाः स्वस्थे पुष्टेऽन्नमेव च।”
(Healthy hair is a reflection of good nourishment and overall health)
Notably, Guru Nanak, the founder of Sikhism, referenced the soapberry tree and soap in the 16th century.
SANSKRIT ORIGIN OF SHAMPOO
Shampoo, a fundamental part of modern personal care routines, has an intriguing history that dates back to ancient India, where hair care was closely linked to cultural and medicinal practices. The term ‘shampoo’ entered the English language during the colonial era, first appearing in 1762. It originates from the Hindi word chanpo (pk¡iks), which derives from the Sanskrit root chapit (pfir), meaning ‘to press, knead, or soothe’. This etymology highlights the significance of hair care in Indian culture and showcases the advanced understanding of natural remedies present in ancient Indian society. To grasp the evolution of shampoo, it’s essential to delve into its Indian roots, where traditional practices laid the groundwork for contemporary hair care.
In ancient India, hair care was a holistic practice woven into daily life and health rituals. Ayurvedic texts, some of the oldest sources of wellness knowledge, provide extensive insights into hair care. Ayurveda, the traditional Indian system of medicine, advocated for a balanced approach to health, integrating diet, lifestyle, and natural remedies. Hair care was an integral part of these broader health practices, focusing on maintaining overall well-being through gentle and effective natural ingredients.
INDIAN HAIR CARE ESSENTIALS
One prominent ingredient in traditional Indian hair care was reetha, or soapberry. Reetha contains saponins, natural compounds that create a mild lather when mixed with water. This gentle lathering makes reetha an effective cleansing agent, capable of removing dirt and excess oil without stripping the hair of its natural moisture. Its use dates back thousands of years, and ancient texts well-documented its effectiveness as a natural shampoo, often combined with other herbs to enhance its cleansing and conditioning properties. Ayurvedic texts like the Bhavaprakasha Nighantu (an ancient Indian Materia Medica) mentions Arishtaka (another name for reetha) in the context of cleansing properties beneficial for the body and hair. A Sanskrit verse often referenced from Bhavaprakasha Nighantu:
अमलोऽरिष्टकश्चैव केशरञ्जनपावनः।
केशसंस्कारकृत्साधुर्हरितस्त्वक्ष्वभेदनः॥
(Amalaki and Arishtaka (reetha) are excellent for cleansing and purifying the hair, promoting its shine and softness. They enhance hair care by removing impurities and nourishing the scalp.)
Another essential component of traditional Indian hair care was shikakai, known as the ‘fruit for hair’. Rich in saponins, shikakai pods have been used for centuries to cleanse and condition hair. Unlike many synthetic shampoos, shikakai does not strip away natural oils, making it a mild alternative. Its detangling properties help smooth the hair and reduce breakage, making it a favoured ingredient in traditional formulations, with its benefits still recognised in modern natural hair care products. Shikakai is prominently discussed in later Ayurvedic literature for its health and cleansing benefits, particularly for hair care.
Amla, or Indian gooseberry, was also a crucial element of ancient hair care routines. Renowned for its high vitamin C content and antioxidant properties, amla is known to strengthen hair, prevent premature graying, and enhance overall hair health. Amla is classified as a Rasayana in Ayurveda, renowned for its anti-aging properties, strengthening hair roots, and promoting hair growth while preventing premature graying. Its cooling and balancing effects make it effective for nourishing the scalp and soothing Pitta dosha, which governs metabolism and heat in the body. A quote from the ancient Charaka Samhita emphasises the role of Amla (Indian gooseberry) in hair and overall health:
अमलकी रसायनं जीवनीयं बृंहणं वयःस्थापनं च।
Traditionally, amla was combined with other herbs and oils to create effective hair treatments, reflecting a focus on using nutrient-rich ingredients to promote long-term hair health.
Turmeric, a well-known herb, praised in the Charaka Samhita and Sushruta Samhita, has been traditionally used in hair care due to its anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial benefits. It was thought to help prevent dandruff and foster a healthy scalp. This use of turmeric reflects the holistic philosophy of ancient Indian practices, which considered both external and internal elements that contribute to hair health.
Traditional Indian hair care extended beyond mere cleanliness; it aimed to enhance overall hair vitality. Natural ingredients were often blended in specific formulations, showcasing a profound understanding of their synergistic effects. Regular oiling was a key aspect of these rituals, using oils such as coconut, sesame, and almond. These oils are rich in essential fatty acids, vitamins, and minerals that nourish the hair and scalp, helping to strengthen hair, combat dryness, and encourage healthy growth. This practice was not only nourishing but also provided relaxation and stress relief.
FROM CHAMPOO TO SHAMPOO
The concept of shampoo began to evolve with the arrival of British colonialists in India. They were introduced to the Indian custom of hair massage and the use of natural cleansing agents. The term ‘shampoo’ entered the English language during this time, derived from the Hindi word champoo, reflecting a growing fascination with Indian practices and their gradual adoption into Western grooming habits. Early Western shampoos differed significantly from the natural formulations used in India, they were often soap-based and lacked the gentleness of traditional ingredients.
Sake Dean Mahomed, an Indian traveller and entrepreneur, is credited with introducing the practice of shampooing to Britain, blending Indian traditions with Western innovations. In 1814, he and his Irish wife, Jane Daly, established the first commercial ‘shampooing’ vapour bath in Brighton, a seaside town known for its burgeoning health tourism. Mahomed’s treatment, marketed as ‘The Indian Medicated Vapour Bath’, combined therapeutic steam baths with traditional Indian massage techniques. He claimed it could alleviate a range of ailments, including rheumatism, joint pain, and general stiffness. Mahomed skillfully promoted his treatments through medical writings and patient testimonials, which highlighted their efficacy and attracted an elite clientele, including royalty. His spa became a sought-after destination during the 19th century trend for seaside retreats, blending the allure of exotic Indian practices with the Victorian pursuit of health and wellness. Mahomed’s innovative approach not only popularised shampooing, but also laid the groundwork for modern spa therapies in Britain.


In the early days of shampoo in Europe, English hairdressers boiled shaved soap in water and added herbs for shine and fragrance. Commercially produced shampoo began to emerge around the turn of the 20th century. A 1914 advertisement for Canthrox Shampoo in American Magazine depicted young women washing their hair in a lake, while Rexall’s magazine ads promoted Harmony Hair Beautifier and Shampoo. In 1900, German perfumer and hairstylist Josef Wilhelm Rausch created the first liquid hair washing soap, naming it ‘Champooing’ in Emmishofen, Switzerland. By 1919, he developed an antiseptic chamomile shampoo with a pH of 8.5. In 1927, liquid shampoo was further refined for mass production by German inventor Hans Schwarzkopf in Berlin, leading to a brand that became well-known throughout Europe.


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Soap and shampoo share a common origin, both originally made from naturally derived surfactants. However, the first modern shampoo, Drene, was introduced in the 1930s, utilising synthetic surfactants rather than traditional soap.
In the early 20th century, the emergence of commercial shampoos marked a pivotal change in hair care. Hans Schwarzkopf, a German chemist, launched the first commercial shampoo in the 1920s, a powdered formulation that transformed hair care practices.
Despite this innovation, the appeal of natural ingredients remained strong, with influences from traditional Indian hair care still present.


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By the mid-20th century, liquid shampoos became popular due to their ease of use and effectiveness compared to powders. Companies like Procter & Gamble and Johnson & Johnson were at the forefront of this shift, targeting a wider audience. However, concerns arose regarding the synthetic components and their potential harshness on hair and scalp.
REVIVAL OF TRADITIONAL, GENTLER INGREDIENTS
In response to growing consumer demand for gentler, more natural products, the late 20th and early 21st centuries saw a revival of interest in traditional ingredients. Indian brands began incorporating natural herbs and plant extracts, merging time honoured practices with modern science. The rise of sulfate-free shampoos, addressing concerns about harsh detergents like sodium lauryl sulfate, became a notable trend, with Indian companies developing gentler cleansing options using ingredients like reetha and shikakai.


In recent years, sustainability and ethical considerations have become key priorities for Indian shampoo brands. Many companies are now adopting eco-friendly packaging made from recyclable or biodegradable materials to reduce environmental impact. Alongside this, there is a growing emphasis on cruelty-free formulations, ensuring that products are not tested on animals, and the use of organic, plant-based ingredients that align with traditional Indian hair care practices. This shift reflects a broader global trend towards environmental awareness and ethical consumerism. By combining effectiveness with responsibility, these brands appeal to a rising demographic of environmentally conscious consumers, fostering a culture of mindful and sustainable self-care.
Looking ahead, the future of shampoo will likely be influenced by ongoing innovations and technological advancements. The integration of biotechnology and smart beauty technology is expected to drive the development of new products. Researchers are exploring bioengineered ingredients and advanced delivery systems to improve both efficacy and sustainability. Additionally, smart devices that assess hair health and offer personalised recommendations may become commonplace, providing tailored solutions based on real-time analysis.


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Overall, the evolution of shampoo in India highlights the nation’s rich legacy of using natural ingredients and holistic hair care methods. Traditional practices formed the basis for modern formulations, ensuring that shampoo continues to be a vital aspect of personal hygiene. The journey from ancient techniques to contemporary products underscores the lasting importance of hair care and the ongoing pursuit of effective, sustainable solutions.
*Dr Punit Kumar is Associate Professor, Department of Physics, University of Lucknow, while Dr Sanjeev Kumar Varshney is Professor Emeritus, Vinayaka Mission Research Foundation, Salem.