Spices are intertwined with Indian culture and civilization. Since time immemorial, India has been considered the ‘Spice Bowl of the World’. Many foreigners came to the sub-continent in search of the highly valued Indian spices. Spice trading was an important economic activity that brought people from Arabia, the Netherlands, Portugal and eventually the United Kingdom, to India, who colonised the whole region given the potential of its natural resources.
For thousands of years, Indians have employed spices and herbs like black pepper, cinnamon, turmeric, and cardamom for culinary and health-related reasons. Cardamom and turmeric, native to India, were cultivated as far back as the 8th century BC in the Babylonian gardens. Among the various spices, turmeric — the golden yellow spice — has always been in prominence because of its culinary as well as medicinal use.
Ancient Herb and Spice
Turmeric is a product of Curcuma longa, a rhizomatous herbaceous perennial plant belonging to the ginger family Zingiberaceae. It holds a central place in Indian culture, traditional medicine, and cuisine. Its use dates back thousands of years, and it continues to be an integral part of daily life in India. The use of turmeric dates back nearly 4000 years to the Vedic culture in India, where it was used as a culinary spice and had some religious significance. It probably reached China by 700 AD, East Africa by 800 AD, West Africa by 1200 AD, and Jamaica in the eighteenth century. In 1280, Marco Polo described this spice, marvelling at a vegetable that exhibited qualities so similar to that of saffron. According to Sanskrit medical treatises and Ayurvedic and Unani systems, turmeric has a long history of medicinal use in South Asia. Sushruta’s Ayurvedic compendium — Sushruta Samhita — dating back to 250 BC, recommends an ointment containing turmeric to relieve the effects of poisoned food. The plant also became the symbol of our war against biopiracy when we won the patent legal battle in 1997. For the time in history, India has forced the US Patent and Trademark Office (PTO) to revoke a contentious patent it granted to researchers in the United States on the use of powdered turmeric for wound healing.
India is presently the world’s leading exporter, consumer, and producer of turmeric. Turmeric was cultivated on an area of 3.24 lakh hectares in India during the 2022-23 season, yielding 11.61 lakh tonnes (more than 75% of the global total). Over thirty distinct varieties of turmeric are cultivated in India, spanning more than twenty states. The states of Tamil Nadu, Maharashtra, Telangana, and Karnataka are the leading producers of turmeric. India holds a market share of over 62% in the global commerce of turmeric. Over 380 exporters exported 1.534 lakh tonnes of turmeric and turmeric products worth 207.45 million USD in 2022-23. The principal export destinations for Indian turmeric are Malaysia, Bangladesh, the United Arab Emirates, and the United States. Indian turmeric is often regarded as the finest in the world due to its intrinsic characteristics and abundant concentration of the crucial medicinal component curcumin.
Today, turmeric is widely cultivated in the tropics and goes by different names in different cultures and countries. In North India, turmeric is commonly called haldi, a name derived from the Sanskrit word haridra, and in the south, it is called manjal, a word that is frequently used in ancient Tamil literature. The name turmeric derives from the Latin word terra merita (meritorious earth), referring to the colour of ground turmeric, which resembles a mineral pigment.
Kandhamal Haldi
Kandhamal Haldi (turmeric) produced by the tribal farmers in Odisha’s Kandhamal district is traditionally grown in the district’s forests and hills. Kandhamal turmeric is completely organic with a strong aroma and higher medicinal value. It received a geographical indication (GI) tag on April 1, 2019. Kandhamal is a centrally located district in Odisha. Approximately 60% of the district’s physical area consists of hills and forests. This area benefits from the abundant resources of nature, which provide a favourable agro-climatic environment for growing a variety of spices, particularly turmeric, ginger, mustard, and tamarind.
Annually, Kandhamal cultivates dry turmeric on approximately 13,600 hectares of land, yielding a production of nearly 24,000 metric tonnes. A significant portion, ranging from 1,400 to 1,500 metric tonnes, is exported to countries including Europe, the US, UK, and Australia. The cultivation and processing of turmeric involve the participation of around 40,000 households in the district.
BOX:
Scientific Classification of Kandhamal Haladi
Kingdom: Plantae
Family: Zingiberaceae
Genus: Curcuma
Species: Longa
Botanicalname: Curcuma Longa L.
Plant Description:
Stem: Pseudo stem with a medium height of 85‐100cm, yellowish green, medium number of shoots (3‐5), few number of leaves on the main stem (less than 5), semi-erect leaves on the stem
Leaf/Leaves: Short petiole, long narrow lamina, light green dorsal side and green ventral side, wavy margin, close venation
Flowering: White seed, loose rhizome, light red scale, inner core golden yellow, outer core light yellow, bold rhizomes
Fruiting time: September‐October
Harvesting time: 8 months
Yield (annual) : 11 t/ha
Period of use : Turmeric powder and dry turmeric can be used for 10‐12 months
Other Characteristics:
Macroscopic and Organoleptic Characters:
Uses
In addition to its sentimental value, turmeric is also utilised as a natural and cost-effective cosmetic aid, such as in the form of kumkum and parani. Turmeric is frequently employed in the spice and ready-made food sectors as a key ingredient in curry powder, meat masala, chicken masala, and similar products. Turmeric, known for its potent antibacterial and anti-inflammatory properties, is widely utilised in the cosmetic industry as a primary component in the production of beauty soap, beauty cream, medicinal soap, and other related products. Due to its significant anti-carcinogenic properties, numerous pharmaceutical companies are currently involved in the extraction of curcumin and oleoresin from turmeric for the production of therapeutic drugs and ointments. Additionally, it is recognised for its ability to deter the growth of undesirable hair on women’s skin. Applying a turmeric paste to the face and limbs during bathing has been seen to effectively cleanse the skin and enhance facial appearance.
The foliage of Kandhamal turmeric is mostly utilised in Odia cuisine for a dish called Enduri Pitha, imparting a strong and distinctive flavour to the preparation. Enduri Pitha is a type of pitha, which is comparable to a pancake. It is prepared by fermenting a batter made from ground rice and urad dal. Wrapped in aromatic turmeric leaves, it has a filling of grated coconut, jaggery, and spices. Conventionally, it is cooked by steaming in broad-mouthed clay pots known as athara handi. A framework constructed from twigs is positioned within the pot, elevated above the water level. The pithas are then placed on this framework to undergo the steaming process.
Planting Methods
Traditionally, farmers commonly utilized their self-preserved seed material from the previous crop or obtained mother rhizomes and fingers from neighbours for the next planting season. Mother rhizomes are particularly favoured as they result in a 50% higher yield compared to finger rhizomes. While backyard cultivation primarily involves the use of mother rhizomes for planting, medium and large-scale cultivation incorporates both mother and finger rhizomes. Government schemes also distribute local seeds obtained from farmers in small quantities to promote area expansion. The recommended seed requirement is 1,500 to 2,000 kg of rhizomes per hectare.
Observations indicate that during the optimal planting period of April to May, farmers commonly plant rhizomes on raised beds or ridges. In Kandhamal districts, some farmers adopt furrow planting, creating furrows using small spades and applying 10 tonnes of farmyard manure per hectare. Rhizomes are then planted at a 30 cm spacing and covered with soil. Mother rhizomes are planted whole, while finger rhizomes are cut into 4-5 cm pieces. Selection criteria prioritize well-developed, healthy, and disease-free rhizomes.
During planting, some farmers incorporate 25 grams of Neem cake powder into the soil in each pit, spaced 20-25 cm within and between rows. Small pits are manually created in beds with row spacing of 25 cm x 30 cm and covered with soil or cattle manure. For furrows and ridges, the recommended optimum spacing is 45-60 cm between rows and 25 cm between plants.
As the plant is propagated vegetatively, through rhizomes, the germplasm of the varieties is retained cent per cent in the subsequent crops. Thus the quality of the produce remains unaltered. The cultivators of Kandhamal district are organic by default. All of the turmeric crops in Kandhamal district are grown organically without the application of chemical fertilizers. Organic manure like farm-made manure is used to meet the nutrient requirements of the plants. The leaf mulching applied to the crop also provides compost to the soil after decomposition in subsequent periods. The farmers in this state have followed indigenous pest and disease management practices for ages. Some farmers plant rhizomes just after burning the field to avoid soil-borne disease and insect damage.
History of Geographical Indication (GI) tag system
Since the implementation of the TRIPS Agreement in 1994 (the agreement on Trade Related aspects of Intellectual Property Rights), which includes a section on geographical indications, policymakers, trade negotiators, producers (especially of agricultural products), lawyers, and economists worldwide have shown growing interest in this form of intellectual property. The growing interest in the subject of geographical indications among nations can be attributed to the inclusion of geographical indications in the TRIPS Agreement. This has expanded the scope of countries involved beyond the limited list of states that have traditionally pursued geographical indicator policies. Article 22.1 of the TRIPS Agreement defines geographical indications as “…indications which identify a good as originating in the territory of a Member [of the World Trade Organization], or a region or locality in that territory, where a given quality, reputation or other characteristic of the good is essentially attributable to its geographical origin.”
The implementation of the Geographical Indication (GI) tag system in India commenced with the passing of the Geographical Indications of Goods (Registration and Protection) Act, 1999. The enactment became effective on September 15, 2003. It facilitates the registration and safeguarding of geographical indicators associated with products in India. The purpose of the GI tag system is to safeguard the distinct characteristics and reputation of products that originate from specific regions, thereby providing advantages to both producers and consumers. Geographical indications have become increasingly important on a global scale, as numerous governments acknowledge the cultural and economic worth they contribute to particular areas. The GI tag system serves to safeguard the indigenous knowledge, artistry, and prestige associated with products originating from specific geographical areas. Furthermore, it provides buyers with the assurance that they are obtaining genuine and superior products that are specifically linked to a specific geographical location. India has awarded Geographical Indication (GI) tags to a wide range of products, including handicrafts, agricultural products, textiles, and food items over the years. Some popular GI tag products of India include the Kanchipuram Silk Sarees, Alphonso Mangoes, Darjeeling Tea, Tirur Betel Leaf, Amroha Dholak, and several more.
The Darjeeling Tea was one of the first products in India to be granted a Geographical Indication (GI) tag, receiving protection in 2004. The purpose of this tag is to restrict the sale of tea labelled as ‘Darjeeling Tea’ to only those teas that are produced in the Darjeeling district of West Bengal. Basmati rice is another notable product in India that has been awarded the Geographical Indication (GI) marking. In 2016, certain locations in India were officially given the authority to grow and sell Basmati rice. Between April 2004 and 2023, a total of 772 items have been officially registered with a Geographical Indication (GI) tag in India. Out of these, 161 products belong to the agriculture sector.
By bagging the GI tag, ‘Kandhamal Haladi’ joins the elite club along with four other turmeric varieties, viz., Waigaon turmeric, Sangli turmeric, Erode turmeric and Lakadong turmeric. Obtaining a Geographical Indication (GI) tag offers several benefits to plants and agricultural products. The GI tag serves as a mark of authenticity and quality assurance for consumers. Knowing that a product is genuinely from a specific region with unique characteristics builds trust and confidence among consumers. Products with a GI tag often carry a higher market value due to their unique qualities, reputation, and association with a particular region. This can lead to premium pricing and increased market demand. GI tags play a role in preserving traditional knowledge, production methods, and cultural practices associated with a particular region. It can open up opportunities for export by positioning the product as a unique and authentic offering in the international market. This, in turn, benefits local farmers in creating more economic opportunities and also will help in preserving their rich heritage.
*The writer is a science communicator and an adjunct faculty at the National Institute of Advanced Studies, Bangalore. He can be reached at bijudharmapalan@gmail.com.
